The story of Molokhia
Molokhia, also called jute mallow, is a leafy plant of the mallow family that has been grown across the Middle East and North Africa for many generations. In Egypt it is almost a national dish: the leaves are picked in summer, minced very finely with a curved two handled knife, and cooked in chicken broth, meat broth and sometimes rabbit broth. Its slippery texture, like okra's, is part of the point, and people who grew up with it look for it.
In the homes of Egyptian Jews molokhia was a familiar lunch, and they brought it with them to Israel. Today it is easy to make in any kitchen: minced frozen molokhia is sold in 400 g packs and goes into the broth straight from the freezer. A kosher kitchen cooks it with chicken, and fries the ta'leya in oil rather than in samna, the clarified butter used for it in Egypt.
What makes Molokhia itself
Molokhia is a fifteen minute dish that needs an hour of broth. The broth gives the flavour, the minced leaves give a deep green colour and a silky texture, and the ta'leya gives the aroma. Two rules make all the difference: no hard boil once the molokhia is in the pot, and no lid, or it separates, sinks and turns brown.
