The story of Fish soup
Fish soup is the cooking of every Mediterranean port. Fishermen cooked what did not sell, heads, frames and small fish, with tomatoes, garlic and olive oil, and so came the bouillabaisse of Marseille, the kakavia of Greece and the chorba of the Tunisian coast. They all rest on the same idea: a short stock from the plain parts, and good fish added at the end.
In the Jewish kitchens of North Africa fish is a food for Shabbat and holidays, above all as chraime, in a hot red sauce. Israeli fish soup takes paprika, cumin and harissa from that world, and its rules from the kosher kitchen: only fish with fins and scales, no seafood, and no meat or chicken in the pot. That is why it is parve.
What makes Fish soup itself
Good fish soup is built on two very different timings. The stock cooks for only 30 minutes, because fish bones give up all their flavour quickly and after that turn bitter and cloudy. The fish itself cooks for even less, 5 to 6 minutes at a gentle simmer. Harissa and caraway give it a Tunisian direction, and lemon at the end lifts everything and tames the fishy smell.




