Kurdish cuisine: 31 dishes from dolma to kubba, by region

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine: 21 dishes, from Kubbeh hamusta to Okra kubbeh soup, 14 ingredients and spices, 3 dates in the holiday calendar, and the community’s story in Israel. Every dish that has a page here is linked, with every ingredient in grams.

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine
Farming settlements founded by the Jews of Kurdistanmore than 30
Jews in Erbil in 19475,500
Years of the mass immigration1950-1951
Regions4

The dishes of Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine

By when they are eaten: Shabbat, holidays, everyday and the street.

For Shabbat

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine, for shabbat

3 dishes

  • Kubbeh hamusta: Lemony sour soup with celery, chard and courgettes and stuffed bulgur kubbeh; a Friday meal soup in Kurdish homes
  • Beet kubbeh: Beet-and-tomato soup; originates in Iraq; our page: beet kubbeh
  • Kurdish rice with chicken:
For holidays

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine, for holidays

3 dishes

  • Rice kubbeh: A shell of ground rice with beef and chicken, a Passover dish
  • Kadeh: Fried half-moon pastry filled with cheese, spinach, dried fruit or meat; a Shavuot dish
  • Haliq: A spread of sesame and nuts cooked in silan (date syrup), a Passover dish
Everyday

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine, everyday

13 dishes

  • Okra kubbeh soup: Red okra soup, Iran and Iraq
  • Kubbeh matfuniya: Root vegetable and pumpkin soup, originating in Turkey
  • Kubba nablusiyya: Fried oval kubbeh with meat, onion and pine nuts
  • Sisqa: The meat filling of kubbeh
  • Shafta: Bulgur patties
  • Yaprakh: Stuffed with rice, with or without meat, cooked slowly on a low flame
  • Madyas: Courgettes stuffed with meat in tomato sauce
  • Suprito: Chicken or meat with fried potatoes, lightly seasoned
  • Musaka: Aubergine slices and meat patties in tomato and garlic sauce
  • Lahma daqiqa: Everyday thin bread baked on a saj; keeps for a long time
  • Naskanan: Sweet bread
  • Jajik: Cold yogurt soup with purslane and spices
  • Jerish: A dish of cracked wheat
Street food

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine, street food

2 dishes

  • Zangula: Fried yeast batter dipped in syrup
  • Shambourak: Kurdish-Syrian filled pastry, sold in Mahane Yehuda Market

Kurdish cuisine in one minute

What it is

Kurdish cuisine is the home cooking of the Kurdish people, from the mountains and valleys where Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Syria meet. It is built on wheat, rice, yogurt, lamb and chicken, beans and lentils, and armfuls of fresh and wild herbs. Bread is baked daily on a griddle or in a clay oven, rice sits at the centre of the main meal, and sourness comes from lemon, sumac, pomegranate and dried lime rather than from chilli heat.

Is it like Turkish, Persian or Arab food?

It shares dishes with all three, because the borders moved and the pots stayed: dolma, kubba, kebab and baklava are cooked across the region. What makes the Kurdish table its own is the mountain dairy (herbed sheep cheese, whey cheese, yogurt drinks), the paper-thin saj bread, wild greens such as the spring filling of kelane, sour stews ladled over rice, and a hospitality where the guest gets the best tray in the house.

Is there a national dish?

There is no official one. Ask Kurds and most will name dolma first, above all in Iraqi Kurdistan, where a pot of stuffed vine leaves and vegetables turned out onto a tray is the Friday and family dish. Kubba, biryani and kebab come right after.

Where the Jewish Kurdish kitchen fits

The Jews of Kurdistan cooked on the same base: bulgur kubba, saj bread, stuffed vegetables and sour soups. Kashrut changed the details, so meat dishes were cooked with oil instead of butter and yogurt stayed on the dairy table. The kubbeh soups Jerusalem loves today came out of these kitchens, and you will find them in the dish list above.

Kurdistan's kitchen in numbers

4

countries, one kitchen

Most Kurds live where Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Syria meet, and each part cooks its own version of the same dishes.

30 to 45 million

Kurds in the world

Estimates range widely. It is one of the largest peoples in the world without a state of its own.

21 March

Newroz

The Kurdish New Year opens the season of picnics, wild herbs and dolma eaten outdoors.

2

main dialects in the kitchen

Kurmanji in the north and west, Sorani in the south and east, so one dish often has two names: kutilk and kube are both kubba.

31

dishes in the atlas below

From breakfast cheese to wedding rice, with where each one comes from and how it is eaten.

Kurdish food list: 31 dishes and how they are eaten

The dish, the region, what is in it, when it is cooked and how it reaches the mouth.

DishWhereWhat is in itWhenHow it is eaten
Dolma (dolme, yaprax)All four partsVine leaves, onions, courgettes, aubergines, peppers and chard stuffed with rice, herbs and often minced meat, cooked in a sour broth of lemon or pomegranate molassesFridays, guests, Newroz picnicsThe pot is turned out onto a big tray and the family eats from it together
Kubba (kube, kutilk)All four partsA shell of bulgur, rice or semolina around spiced minced meat and onionWeekly, holidaysFried as a snack, or poached in sour and red soups
Biryani (biryanî)Iraqi KurdistanLong-grain rice with chicken or lamb, fried potato cubes, peas, toasted vermicelli, almonds and raisins, gently spicedWeddings, guests, EidHeaped on a platter, with salad and a tomato sauce on the side
KelaneHawraman and Kermanshah, Iranian and Iraqi KurdistanThin dough folded over wild onion greens or spring onions and chives, cooked on a sajSpringBrushed with butter, folded and eaten straight off the griddle
TepsîIraqi KurdistanFried aubergine, potato, onion and peppers layered with meatballs in tomato sauce, baked in a round trayFamily lunchServed from the tray, with white rice
Teşrîb (tashreeb)Iraqi KurdistanFlatbread torn into a deep dish and soaked in lamb or chicken broth with chickpeas and dried limeWinter, Ramadan eveningsWith a spoon, the meat laid on top
Shile over riceIraqi KurdistanA stew of white beans, okra, peas or aubergine with meat in tomato sauceDaily lunchLadled over white rice; this is the everyday main meal
Birinc (white rice)All four partsLong-grain rice with a little toasted vermicelli, cooked to separate grainsEvery dayUnder every stew, beside every kebab
Sawar (bulgur pilaf)Villages across KurdistanCoarse bulgur cooked with onion and tomato or in meat brothEvery dayA side to stews, with pickles and salad
MeqlûbeSouthern and western KurdistanRice layered with fried aubergine or cauliflower and meat, cooked and flippedFridays, guestsTurned out like a cake at the table
Nîskene (lentil soup)All four partsRed lentils with onion and cumin, sometimes with bulgur or riceWinter, RamadanWith lemon and torn bread
Kutilk in yogurt soupNorthern and Iraqi KurdistanSmall bulgur dumplings in a warm yogurt soup with garlic and dried mintSpring and summerHot, in bowls; kosher kitchens make the dumplings without meat
KebabErbil, Diyarbakir, Urfa and every cityMinced lamb or beef with onion pressed onto wide skewers and grilled over charcoalEvenings, picnicsWrapped in thin bread with grilled tomato, sumac onions and parsley
Kofta and shiftaAll four partsMinced meat kneaded with onion and parsley, shaped by handEvery dayGrilled, pan-fried or simmered in tomato sauce, with rice or in bread
QelîNorthern and southern KurdistanPieces of lamb or beef fried with onion, tomato and peppers until the fat rendersQuick meals, the days after Eid al-AdhaStraight from the pan, with bread
Kaburga dolmasıDiyarbakirLamb ribs or breast stuffed with spiced rice and slow-cookedFeastsCarved at the table
Perde pilavSiirtRice with chicken, almonds and pine nuts baked inside a thin dough shellCelebrations, honoured guestsTurned out whole and cut like a cake
BüryanSiirt and BitlisLamb hung in a deep pit oven and slow-roasted over embersMarkets, Ramadan iftarSliced thin onto flatbread that soaks up the juices
Serûpê (pacha)Iraqi and Iranian KurdistanSheep's head, trotters and stomach stuffed with rice, simmered for hoursWinter breakfastsEarly in the morning, bread soaked in the broth, with lemon
Van breakfastVanHerbed sheep cheese, honey with clotted cream, olives, eggs, butter, mirtoxe and flatbreadWeekends, guestsA spread of small plates with endless tea
Mirtoxe (murtuğa)Van and HakkariFlour toasted in butter until nutty, then eggs worked inBreakfastHot from the pan, scooped with bread
Spinach with eggsAll four partsSpinach or wild greens cooked with onion, eggs broken on topSpringFrom the pan, with bread
Nan (tanûr bread)All four partsWheat dough slapped onto the inside wall of a clay ovenEvery dayTorn by hand; bread is also the spoon
Saj breadMountains and villagesPaper-thin dough stretched over the domed saj griddleEvery day; stacks keep for weeksSprinkled with water to soften; Kurdish Jews call it lahma daqiqa
Zelate (Kurdish salad)All four partsTomato, cucumber, onion and parsley with lemon or sumacEvery mealBeside the rice and stew
Tirşî (pickles)All four partsTurnips turned pink by beet, cucumbers, cauliflower and peppers in brineEvery tableSmall bites between rice and stew
Klêçe (kulîçe)All four partsCookies filled with dates or walnuts and scented with cardamomEid, NewrozWith tea
Peqlawe (baklava)CitiesThin pastry layered with walnuts or pistachios in syrupEid, weddingsWith tea or bitter coffee
Mastaw and doAll four partsYogurt beaten with water and salt; do is the sour, fermented versionSummer, beside riceCold, in tall glasses
Çay (Kurdish tea)All four partsStrong black tea brewed in a double potAfter every meal and all dayIn small tulip glasses, very sweet
Qehweya kezwanêNorthern KurdistanRoasted terebinth fruit, ground and cooked like coffeeWith guestsSmall cups, thick and nutty

Names in brackets are the Kurdish names you will hear. Spellings change between Kurmanji and Sorani.

The four kitchens of Kurdistan

One people, four countries, four ways of cooking.

PartCitiesSignature dishesWhat marks it
Northern Kurdistan (Bakur), southeast TurkeyDiyarbakir, Van, Siirt, Bitlis, UrfaVan breakfast, perde pilav, büryan, kaburga dolması, terebinth coffeeMountain dairy and the richest breakfast tables, pit-oven lamb, Ottoman-era pastries
Southern Kurdistan (Başûr), northern IraqErbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok, HalabjaDolma, biryani, tepsî, teşrîb, shile over rice, klêçeRice-centred lunches, sour stews, the big Friday dolma pot, close ties to the Iraqi Jewish and Arab kitchens
Eastern Kurdistan (Rojhilat), western IranSanandaj, Kermanshah, Mahabad, HawramanKelane, nan berenji (Kermanshah rice-flour cookies), herb stews, Persian-style riceWild greens and herbs, terraced village gardens, rice and stews in the Persian manner
Western Kurdistan (Rojava), northeast SyriaQamishli, Kobani, AfrinKubba, bulgur dishes, olives and olive oil from Afrin, kebabWheat plains and olive groves, with Levantine touches such as tahini and pomegranate molasses

Inside each part the city cooks differently from the village, and the valley from the mountain.

The Kurdish pantry: 14 things every kitchen keeps

The English name, the name you will hear in the kitchen, the Hebrew name and what it does.

EnglishName you will hearHebrewWhat it does
SumacsumaqסומאקSour red powder for kebab onions, salads and grilled tomatoes
Dried limenoomiלומי (לימון מיובש)Whole or cracked into stews and tashreeb for a deep, fermented sourness
Pomegranate molassesdibs rummanדבס רימוניםSweet and sour glaze for dolma broth and salads
Grape molassesdimsדבס ענביםThick grape syrup, eaten with tahini and bread at breakfast
Urfa pepperisotפלפל אורפהDark, smoky chilli flakes; heat is added at the table, not in the pot
YogurtmastיוגורטThe base of drinks, soups and sauces on the dairy table
Dried yogurtkashkקשקSour dried yogurt crumbled into winter soups
Herbed sheep cheesejajîגבינת צאן עם עשבי ברYoung cheese packed with mountain herbs, the star of the Van breakfast
Whey cheeselorikגבינת מי גבינהSoft, fresh cheese made from leftover whey, eaten in spring
Wild herbsgiyaעשבי ברSpring greens for kelane, salads and omelettes
Coarse bulgursawarבורגול גסCooked like rice as a pilaf; fine bulgur goes into kubba
Long-grain ricebirincאורז ארוךThe prestige grain of the south, cooked to separate grains
Walnutsgwêzאגוזי מלךFrom the Zagros forests into stuffings, cookies and sweets
Terebinthkezwanפרי האלהRoasted fruit ground for Kurdish coffee

All of these can be found in Middle Eastern spice shops and markets.

A day of Kurdish meals, and the guest tray

  1. Breakfast

    Bread warm from the saj or the oven, white cheese, yogurt, olives, eggs, honey or grape molasses with tahini, and the first glasses of sweet tea.

  2. Lunch, the main meal

    Rice with one or two stews (white beans, okra or aubergine in tomato), salad, pickles and bread. In many homes this is the meal the whole family sits down to.

  3. Afternoon

    Tea again, with klêçe, fruit or nuts. In summer a cold glass of mastaw.

  4. Dinner

    Lighter: lentil soup, eggs with greens, cheese and bread, or what is left from lunch.

  5. When guests come

    The table grows: a turned-out dolma pot, biryani or kebab, several salads and pickles, then fruit, then sweets and tea. The host keeps refilling plates, and leaving a little food shows you are full.

A year in the Kurdish kitchen

What is cooked in each season and on each date, and why.

WhenWhat is cookedWhy
Late winterKubba soups, teşrîb, lentil soup, serûpêHot, sour broths for the cold months in the mountains
21 March, NewrozPicnics: dolma, kebab, salads and sweetsThe New Year and the first day out in the green; families eat outdoors
SpringKelane, spinach with eggs, lorik cheese, kutilk in yogurt soupWild greens and new milk arrive together
Late summerDrying tomatoes, peppers and hollowed aubergine shells, boiling grape molasses, making bulgurStocking the pantry for winter; the dried shells become winter dolma
Ramadan and Eid al-FitrLentil soup and dates to break the fast, klêçe and peqlawe for EidBreaking the fast, then visits and sweets
Eid al-AdhaLamb shared with family and neighbours, qelî and biryaniMeat from the sacrifice feeds the house for days
Sukkot in Israel (Saharane)Picnics with kubba, salads and sweetsThe spring festival of the Jews of Kurdistan; in Israel it moved to the intermediate days of Sukkot

The Jewish dates of this kitchen are in the holiday calendar above.

How to eat at a Kurdish table

Bread

Never wasted

Bread is treated with respect and is not thrown away. Dry bread goes into soups or to the animals.

The cloth

Eating on the sifre

In many homes food is laid on a cloth on the floor and everyone sits around it. Shoes stay at the door.

Hands

Wash before and after

A jug and basin, or a sink, before the meal and after it. Bread is torn with the right hand.

The host

Your plate refills itself

The host keeps adding food. Saying you are full once is politeness; when you truly are, leave a little on the plate.

The guest

The best piece is yours

Guests and elders are served first, and the best meat goes to the guest.

Tea

The meal ends with tea

Small glasses of strong, sweet tea follow every meal. A second and a third glass are normal.

Kurdish food: myths and facts

What people say, and what is true.

You may have heardThe fact
Kurdish food is just Turkish foodIt shares Ottoman-era dishes, but it has its own breads, dairy, sour stews and names, and four regional kitchens across four countries.
Kurdish food is very spicyMost dishes are mild. Sourness from lemon, sumac and dried lime matters more than chilli, and Urfa chilli flakes are added at the table.
It is all meat and kebabEveryday food is bulgur, rice, beans, lentils, greens and yogurt. Lamb is for guests, Fridays and feasts.
Kubba is a Lebanese dishKubba, kibbeh and kube are one family across the region. The Kurdish and Iraqi kitchens made the soup branch their own.
Biryani is only IndianIraqi and Kurdish biryani is a separate, gentle rice with vermicelli, potatoes, peas, nuts and raisins.
The Jews of Kurdistan had a different cuisineThey cooked the same base dishes and adapted them to kashrut: oil instead of butter with meat, and yogurt kept for dairy meals.

Start here: 10 Kurdish dishes, easiest first

  1. 1. Mastaw

    Yogurt, cold water, salt and dried mint. Two minutes, and you have the drink of a Kurdish summer.

  2. 2. Zelate

    Dice tomato, cucumber and onion small, add parsley, lemon and a pinch of sumac.

  3. 3. Sawar

    Fry onion, add tomato paste and coarse bulgur, cover with water and cook it like rice.

  4. 4. Lentil soup

    Red lentils, onion and cumin, blended smooth and finished with lemon.

  5. 5. White bean shile

    Beans and beef simmered in tomato until thick, ladled over rice.

  6. 6. Kofta in tomato sauce

    Minced meat with onion and parsley, shaped and simmered in tomato.

  7. 7. Tepsî

    Fry aubergine and potato, layer them with meatballs and tomato, and bake.

  8. 8. Kelane

    Thin dough folded over chopped spring onions and chives, cooked in a dry pan.

  9. 9. Dolma

    Stuff vine leaves and vegetables with rice, pack the pot tight, cook in a sour broth and turn it out.

  10. 10. Kubba

    Knead fine bulgur into a shell, fill it with spiced meat, close and fry or poach. The skill takes practice.

The holiday calendar of Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine

What goes on the table on each date.

DateDishesNote
Friday mealKubbeh hamusta
ShavuotKadehFried dairy pie
PassoverRice kubbeh, Haliq

Spice and ingredient glossary

The name in Hebrew, in the local language and in English, and what it is for.

EnglishLocal nameHebrewWhat it is
BulgurبرغلBulgurKubbeh shell
SemolinaسميدSemolina
Ground riceرزGround ricePassover kubbeh
BeetشوندرBeet
ChardسلقChardHamusta
CeleryكرفسCeleryHamusta
LemonليمونLemonSour flavours
OkraباميةOkra
PumpkinقرعPumpkinMatfuniya
Date syrupدبسDate syrupHaliq
SesameسمسمSesame
Pine nutsصنوبرPine nutsKubba nablusiyya
PurslaneرجلةPurslaneJajik
LuffaLuffaA plant that becomes safe through long cooking

Techniques and vessels

How it is cooked, and in what.

Saj griddle

Saj griddle

Convex griddle for very thin bread

Hand-shaping kubbeh

Hand-shaping kubbeh

Bulgur dough around a sisqa filling

Sour broth

Sour broth

Lemon, celery and chard

Deep frying

Deep frying

Kubba nablusiyya, kadeh, zangula

Tabun

Tabun

Shabbat hot plate

Shabbat hot plate

Stews cooked on the hot plate

Pickling

Pickling

Turnips with beet, preserved lemon

Long cooking

Long cooking

Stuffed dishes on a low flame

Regions and variants

The same dish, another city, another taste.

RegionWhat is special
IraqBeet kubbeh (shwander), okra kubbeh
IranRed okra kubbeh
SyriaKubbeh hamusta (chard, courgettes, lemon)
TurkeyKubbeh matfuniya

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine in Israel

How they came

Organised immigration mainly 1950-1951 (partly within Operation Ezra and Nehemiah); earlier groups from Zakho from the mid-19th century, Urfa 1896, Barshi 1929

Where they settled

About half in Jerusalem (for example Zikhron Yosef), and more than 30 farming settlements (Nes Harim, Patish and others)

Markets and places

Mahane Yehuda Market (Jerusalem): Winter kubbeh soups; Rachmo, Azura, Mordoch. Kubbeh in Jerusalem: .

Kurdish (Kurdish-Jewish) cuisine in numbers

almost 200,000, about half of them in Jerusalem

Kurds in Israel (including descendants)

Four regular kinds of kubbeh; about 30 years in Mahane Yehuda

Kubbeh soups at the Mordoch restaurant

Neighbouring cuisines

The same pots, other spices.

Neighbouring cuisine

Iraqi (Iraqi-Jewish) cuisine

19 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page
Neighbouring cuisine

Moroccan (Moroccan-Jewish) cuisine

22 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page
Neighbouring cuisine

Yemenite cuisine

21 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page
Neighbouring cuisine

Persian (Iranian-Jewish) cuisine

21 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page
Neighbouring cuisine

Syrian (Aleppo and Damascus Jewish) and Lebanese cuisine

25 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page
Neighbouring cuisine

Tunisian and Tripolitan (Libyan-Jewish) cuisine

28 dishes, a spice glossary, a holiday calendar and the story in Israel.

To the page

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Iraqi and Kurdish kubbeh?

Their kubbeh is very close. The Kurdish stresses kubbeh soups (hamusta, beet, okra, matfuniya) and very thin bread on a saj (lahma daqiqa), while the Iraqi also stresses rice, stuffed vegetables and tbit.

What is kubbeh hamusta?

A lemon-sour soup with celery, chard and courgettes in which stuffed bulgur kubbeh float.

How is kubbeh dough made?

A shell of bulgur (rice at Passover), filled with sisqa (a spiced meat filling) and shaped with a wet hand. We will fix the weights on our recipe page.

What is eaten at Shavuot in Kurdish cuisine?

Kadeh: a fried half-moon pie filled with cheese, spinach or dried fruit.

What do Kurds eat at Passover?

Rice kubbeh and haliq (a spread of sesame and nuts in silan).

What is lahma daqiqa?

Thin bread baked on a saj, an everyday food that keeps for a long time.

Is Kurdish food spicy?

Not usually:, and the sourness comes from lemon.

What is shafta?

Bulgur patties.

Where can you eat kubbeh in Jerusalem?

In Mahane Yehuda Market: kubbeh stalls and eateries such as Rachmo and Azura.

How many Kurds live in Israel?

Estimates range from about 130,000 to 300,000, depending on the definition and the source; almost 200,000 according to a 2013 estimate.

A meal from this cuisine, for a team or an event

How many people, when and what they like. We come back with a proposal.

Group and office meals