The story of Dizi
Abgoosht means meat water in Persian, and dizi is the name of the small stone or clay pot it is cooked and served in, one portion per pot. It is everyday food of markets and simple eateries, and in Tehran there are places that serve little else. It has relatives across the region: piti from Azerbaijan, and Assyrian and Armenian versions cooked with beef.
The ritual is half the dish. The broth is poured into a bowl, flatbread is torn into it and left to soak, and this is called tilit. Then the meat, chickpeas, beans and potatoes are pounded into a coarse mash called gusht kubideh, pounded meat, and eaten with raw onion, fresh herbs, pickles and more bread. The Jews of Iran cooked abgoosht too, with lamb or kosher beef.
What makes Dizi itself
Abgoosht is two dishes from one pot. The broth is fairly clear, yellow from turmeric and tangy from dried lime, and it is meant for bread. The mash is thick, rich and deep, and it is meant for the raw onion and herbs that cut through it. The dried lime is the signature: a smoky, slightly bitter sourness that no fresh lemon gives. And pounding by hand, not in a blender, is what gives the mash the texture of meat rather than glue.




